Essaar's Writing Itinerary

“Here today, gone tomorrow” is a well-suited aphoristic sentence, which can be used for defining the transient, ever-evolving, seductive and capricious element of fashion in its true sense. What may be the “in” thing today may turn out to be indecorous and unstylish in the times to come, hence the only certain thing in the fashion world is the change it undergoes. The trends and tones of fashion can be best conceived as the sprouting seeds, which evolve and germinate after being exposed to varied shades of culture, and on being watered by the fountains of inspiration and creativity. Analogous to the history of fads and furors in the Western World, fashion has come a long way in Pakistan as well since its birth in 1947. With diversified forms of fabrics and embellishing embroideries knavishly blended with western cuts and designs, an impressive array of chic and trendy designer outfits have been introduced from time to time, over the years in the world of local fashion. Thus, every decade had been truly reflective of the fusion of the East and West when it comes to explaining the evolution of fashion in Pakistan.

Fashion in the late 1940s had been greatly influenced by the Indian culture. Women of the respective era either donned an elegant cotton sari or a Capris suit while men clad in fitted satin jackets with tailored waistline and jeans. Hair was either curled or rolled and shoulder-length or slightly longer with beehive hairstyle as one of the most popular hairdos while the make-up was simple without any splashy appearance. As fashion continued to evolve into the 1950s, shalwar-kameez emerged as the dominant habiliment with little variations. Tight-fitted kameez was being worn over a baggy shalwar while ankle bracelets, bandannas, cat-eye glasses, crew-cuts, charm bracelets, and pony-tails became the fashion statements of the times.

The 1960s fashion had been recognized for its distinguishable trends and tones. Most of the people emulated whatever they saw on screen. Narrow-fitted teddy shirts without slits and teddy shalwars along with narrow dupattas, prominent war paint, hair pieces, love beads and stilettos were common amongst the women while the men’s fashion consisted of tartans, double-breasted sports jackets, Nehru jackets, turtle-necks or polo necks, and pointed shoes. One of the most distinct styles of the period was the bellbottoms, which was equally popular with both sexes. As far as the hairstyles are concerned, women’s hair was either very short or long and gangly while men resorted to longer hair along with beard and moustaches. The 60s fashion not only made its way into the next decade but there are a few fashionable elements of those times that have been revived today.

While the bellbottoms continued to be well-liked by both men and women in the 1970s, frilled blouses, umbrella-cut shirts, loose Kurtas also being known as Awami suits and Chiffon Saris emerged on the fashion scene. Besides these, customized T-shirts, baseball jerseys, broad and colorful ties, and three piece suits made their way into the classy men’s wardrobe. Speaking of make-up, it was soft and natural looking with frosted lipstick as one of the “in” things of the times while perms and waves were in style. Go-go glasses, chunky chains, and platform shoes were a few of the fashion accessories that were in vogue in the 1970s.

In the colorful and flamboyant 1980s, one may witness an amalgamation of varied trends from different epochs of the fashion world. Not only being known for the outstanding glitzy fads and furors, the glamorous period of 1980s is also acknowledged for producing au courant designers who have achieved a lot in a little time. The celebrated fashionistas of the 1980s include Amir Adnan, Shamaeel, Freiha Altaf, etc.

The 1980s had been dominated by Kali kurtas, Dhotis and Dholak Shalwars, Banarsi saris and cotton dupattas. Organza was another delicate fabric to be popular during the times. The men’s attire included stone-washed or acid-washed jeans, denim jackets, narrow ties and Oxford shirts while the donning of a three piece suit observed a significant decline. As for the hairdos, the 1970s sideburns for men went away from the fashion scene giving way to short and asymmetrical haircuts. Last but not the least, hair combs, hair bands, ID bracelets, cosmetic jewellery, Swatch watches and clutches became one of the most needed fashion accessories amongst the fair sex at that time.

The era of nineties can be conceived as the hibernating period in the world of local fashion. With little or no recognizable innovation of any kind, the designers of those times borrowed trends from the early twentieth century. The nineties had witnessed a sixties and a seventies revival with fitted pajamas of the ’60s; to short, fitted A-line kameezes of the ’70s, both rolling up in the ’90s. In addition to short kameezes, Gharara, Sheirwani, Paishwaz, khaddar and hand-embroidered garments also made a comeback. As for the men’s ensemble, it comprised of waffle-patterned sweat-shirts, grey-colored dress shirts, straight pants without pleats, saggy pants, and dotted ties. Traditional kholapuris, multi-colored khusas, and pretty-pretty Pashminas were the interesting adornments that complemented a 90s’ fashionista’s entire attire.

While a little evolution in fashion had been observed during the 1990s, the new millennium or the contemporary decade is marked by numerous fashion trends, which although reflect the traces of the historic times, are well-structured and contoured much efficiently. The short kameezes continue to be the order of the day with tunics making way into a chic woman’s closet. Capris and straight trousers have made a return, being worn along with the stilettos or flat chappals and embroidered silk saris have gained attention of many. The men continue to clad themselves in baggy Cargo pants, tracksuits, hooded sweatshirts (hoodies) and embroidered Sheirwani suits, etc. while crew-cuts and spikes are in vogue when it comes to hairdos.

The accessories being donned in the existing decade include plastic bracelets of vibrant colors, metallic jewelry, long chains, small purses etc.

This brings us to the current year, 2008, in the chronology of fashion’s evolution in Pakistan. The latest trends are a true manifestation of the past designs. However, a few new additions include large belts, imitation jewelry, huge earrings, long necklaces, and over-sized bags.

The evolution in the fashion industry is inevitable. Fashion is an entity that never remains the same. It fades once identified, though it always revives from time to time. It is something, which goes in one year and out the other and is defined in varied ways during different times. As a wise man quotes, “Ten years before its time, a fashion is indecent; ten years after, it is hideous; but a century after, it is romantic.” And I would say ten years from now, and you never know if what the Pakistani fashion scene would be.

The article was published in a lifestyle magazine called “Sensation.” (June 2008 Edition)